Sharkbait’s Cocktail Of The Week: Everything Old Is New Again

What’s that old saying? Everything old is new again? Given the events of the world the last two weeks, I’d say that is true.

Speaking of old, this week I’m making a pre-prohibition classic that I’m shocked I haven’t made in the three plus years I’ve been writing this: The Sidecar.

Given that this is such a classic, basically all of my cocktail books had a version of the sidecar, which consists of Cognac (or brandy), an orange liqueur of some kind, and lemon juice. The only variables were the amounts of each ingredient and some type of sweetener, either called for directly or left at the makers discretion. I decided to go with the recipe from Frank Caiafa’s Waldorf Astoria Bar Book. The reason being that this has the highest base spirit amount, and an optional sweeter.

Sidecar:

2 oz. VSOP Couvoisier VSOP cognac

1 oz. Combier Liqueur d’Orange

.75 oz. Lemon juice

Rub lemon wedge around half of rim of chilled cocktail glass and roll moistened portion in superfine sugar (optional). Add all ingredients to mixing glass. Add ice and shake well. Fine strain into prepared cocktail glass. Garnish with an orange peel

Not exactly the ingredients called for, but acceptable substitutions I think. Especially the brandy. Read on to see why.

The nose here is fairly benign if I do say so myself. Nothing is really jumping out to me at first. Going back in a second and third time however, I can start to pick up citrus notes in there. Mainly orange, but with a touch of lemon underneath. I figured the lemon would carry the day since lemon is quite hard to overpower, but this seems to have muted it.

The initial taste is not at all what I expected. The lemon juice and the Cointreau provide a rather intense, and acidic flavor. The heavy citrus and acidic flavor really carries through most of the sip. I The more I drink, I can start to place where the brandy comes into play. It starts out mellow, and then builds in intensity towards the finish as the citrus and the acid flavors either wane or you get taste blind to them. This all leads up to a rather nice finish of the brandy, lemon and Cointreau all working together for a well balanced ending. One thing I would add in is the optional superfine sugar called for in the Waldorf recipe, or use Jim Meehan’s PDT recipe which adds in .25 oz of simple syrup. I’m normally one to shy away from optional sweeteners, but I think a touch of sweet flavors would tone down the acid just enough to really push this one over the top.

In his description, Frank Caiafa says to “not use your best brandy here” and I would agree. The brandy gets lost for most of the drink, and when you can taste it, it acts as a background player. So don’t go breaking the bank on top shelf brandy to mix in here.

Like I mentioned before, I’m genuinely surprised I went so long without making such a classic cocktail, but I’m glad I finally did. This one is a classic for a reason, and it couldn’t be easier to make. Pick up some decent (but not bottom of the barrel) brandy and mix up some Sidecars this weekend.

(Banner image found here)