Date: Thursday (?) 9/26/2022

Location: Dockweiler Beach – Gillis Breakwater

Is that thing actually a breakwater? Maybe it’s an old pier.  I don’t even know, it’s basically just a big pile of rocks and rusted metal.  For all I know it could have be a retired piece of art from LACMA that they dropped into the ocean.  At any rate, with the right swell (biggish) coming from the right direction (southish) it breaks like a point and there’s a killer left.  You have to take off right into the rocks – basically give it a pair of middle fingers to the face – but if you stay relaxed you’ll be rewarded.

I don’t even know why I’m talking about that, it wasn’t like that at all today.

I didn’t get into the water until about 11 a.m. (slept in a bit, you know the drill) so it was completely vacant and pretty much blown out.  Didn’t help that the tide was full high.  I spent about an hour messing around on the south side of the pier hunting for some beachbreak to ride.  It was fairly small but breaking really heavy into shallow water at the same time (pretty much the worst you could ask for) but I still managed to hook a few decent waves and only ate shit a couple of times.  Water temperature was nice (72 degrees) so I wore the springsuit I “found” in Venice Beach (still feel kinda guilty about that). Board was my 6’3″ Spider.

Get this – I ran into Dizzy and Hollerin’ Ron over at the public bathrooms.  They were having some kind of argument or negotiation over a can of WD-40.  I have no idea what that was about (nor do I want to).  They said that Saint Jim is somewhere in Minnesota – he found himself a pretty decent gig selling those electric mosquito rackets (note to self: “Electric Mosquito Racket” is a perfect name to call your next band when you have enough money to pick up a bass from Imperial Pawn) so he probably won’t turn up around here until the weather turns cold.  Believe it or not, I actually miss that guy.  I think I’m the only guy who can actually understand him when he tries to talk about football.

Oh!  So you remember how I kept getting sick that winter that Ryan and me were living in that storage unit in Venice Beach?  Ryan had an idea – he said that maybe it wasn’t black mold like we first thought.  He says maybe it’s because we kept going out in the water too soon after it had rained and were swallowing too much sewage that was getting washed out of the canals.  So the idea is to take a shot of something after ever session.  Alcohol is a disinfectant, right? And plus, mas bebidas estan bien conmigo, si?  And it might be a placebo effect, but I’ll be damned if it hasn’t worked.  I’m grading my session today as a B+, which means I’ll be starting my evening with the finest bourbon that’s available at Lucky Stop.

All right, I gotta wrap this up, my bus should be here shortly.  Hopefully they don’t give me shit about bringing my board on again. Marinovich out.